02 January 2013

Northern Lights No Show



Each year the Sony offices close down for the days between Christmas and New Year, meaning that we get free days leave – such a good Christmas present!  This/last year, Tony and I decided to make the most of the days off by flying to Sweden the day after Boxing Day for 5 nights of hunting the northern lights.  The northern lights are caused by solar activity, which is apparently on an 11 year-cycle with this northern winter supposedly representing the high point on that cycle.  Tony and I figured that this should have equated to spectacular displays… if only!  Despite my aversion to all things cold, I’ve travelled north of the Arctic Circle three times in the last five years in search of the northern lights… and unluckily for me, it’s been an epic fail every time.  I’m now starting to feel convinced that the lights must just be some photo-shopped conspiracy by the Arctic Circle tourism board!

Our first night in Sweden was spent in Stockholm thanks to SAS changing its scheduled flight plans.  It meant we had a chance to check out the city’s interconnected islands on the way in from the airport, and an opportunity to explore the narrow streets of the old town in Gamla Stan before catching up with Amy and Warwick for a dose of lovely Kiwi/Swedish hospitality.  Unfortunately the Christmas markets weren’t open anymore, but thanks to Amy’s recommendations we did find a gorgeous restaurant for a late dinner (or at least it felt late, thanks to the way it gets dark so early in the day that far north!).

The flight up to Kiruna from Stockholm was stunning, with gorgeous sunlight reflecting on the wings of the plane and the winter wonderland below.  Once there, we caught a train straight up to Abisko – allegedly the best place in the world to see the northern lights because of its settled weather and clear skies.  We stayed at the Abisko Tourist Station, which is actually outside of Abisko town but conveniently close to the chairlift that takes you up to the Abisko Sky Station.  There wasn’t enough interest for us to be able to do an overnight stay at the Sky Station, so instead we hopped on the chairlift shortly after it opened at 8 to head up for a night visit… and quickly found ourselves making our way up the mountain through a freezing blizzard.  Safe to say we didn’t have the most ideal conditions for viewing the lights…

After an hour or two of sipping hot chocolate and twiddling our thumbs while playing a made up game of top trumps with our constellation cards in the warmth of the mountain lodge, someone yelled out that the lights were here.  Queue a mad rush as everyone started pulling on warm outer layers, grabbing tripods and heading for the door.  We set up the cameras in knee-deep snow and waited for the spectacle to begin.  And waited some more.  And waited a bit longer just for good measure.  In a twist of fate that now seems particularly cruel, I took a couple of random shots to check exposure settings and the like, and wouldn’t you know it - there, on screen, across the middle of the sky, was a bright streak of green… just a pity that you couldn’t see it when you looked up!  Eventually, at around midnight and when we were virtually the last guests left up the mountain, we decided to call it a night.  Fortunately there was no blizzard to rub salt into our wounds, and we still held out hope for nights 3 to 5…

Next morning we caught a taxi to Jukkasjärvi and the Ice Hotel.  The landscape on the drive between Abisko and the Ice Hotel was spectacular, as was the light from the sun that barely rose above the horizon.  After checking in and booking on a snowmobile tour that afternoon, we left our luggage in our locker/changing room for the night and went exploring.  Having watched a documentary about it last week, I can tell you that the Ice Hotel is made solely from ice blocks and snow.  The ice blocks are cut from the Torne River at the end of each winter and stored in a giant freezer until the following autumn, when construction of the new hotel starts a mere six weeks before opening day… and given the price they charge for a room, I’m guessing they can’t afford to miss opening day! 

The whole hotel complex is made up of warm and cold areas – things like reception and the “dressing room” (which is where you store your luggage and where the bathrooms and saunas are located) are in proper wooden buildings.  It’s just the “cold rooms”, the ice bar and the ice-church that are made of ice and kept at balmy -5 Celsius.  The cold part of the hotel has a long central corridor with three or four branches leading off it with rooms either side.  The most basic rooms have ice walls, a block on which the wooden bed frame sits with mattress and reindeer skins on top. If you opt for an art suite then you’re treated to a fantasy icescape, as a team of sculptors are hired to decorate/design each individual suite.  There was a Chinese dragon’s lair and an enchanted garden grotto with flowers carved into all of the walls. We stayed in a room filled with crazy snowmen, some of which were made up of balls that looked like planets.  The ice church was also amazing, with a whole altar piece that looked as though it had been lit from within.  I understand that more and more people are getting married there, but why on earth you’d want to freeze on your wedding day, I just don’t know!

We did try to explore the village before our snowmobiling tour but quickly discovered that there isn’t actually a lot to see… and there aren’t that many places to eat either.  We eventually settled on smoked reindeer and whitebait canapés and then headed back to the dressing room to don the supplied overalls, snow boots, balaclavas and layered mittens for the tour.  By the time you manage to get yourself into all the kit you’ve actually worked up a bit of a sweat and are soon feeling too toasty - if that’s even possible at minus 27 deg!  Added to that, the snowmobiles have headed handlebars and footcovers, which are potentially the most AMAZING invention ever (although note that the passenger bars don’t heat up nearly as much, which means there’s even more of an incentive to be in the driver’s seat).

The snowmobile tour was a lot of fun.  We first set out onto the Torne River before heading into some woodland, where Tony almost had the slowest crash in the history of all snowmobiling crashes.  He then sought to recover some manly pride by driving the snowmobile nearly twice as fast as I’d been willing to push it… quite an achievement when the snow was pelting down.  Much as I enjoyed whizzing quickly through the snow, I think my favourite bit was when we hopped off the snowmobiles and walked out onto a lake in knee high snow and then just let ourselves fall backwards into drifts and the softest landing ever.  The funniest bit by far was when the guide challenged Tony to a race back to the vehicles – Tony was doing a great job of keeping up with him… right up until the point where he face-planted in a particularly deep drift!

When we made it back to the hotel after the tour, there was time for a half bottle of champagne in the ice bar before dinner.  The bar is a great novelty experience.  As you’d expect from the name, everything is made from ice – the bar itself (which has bottles of absolute vodka frozen into it), the seats/tables and even the flute shaped glasses.  The one thing that I could have done without was the cheesy disco lights and Gangnam Style blasting over the radio (seeing as we were virtually the only patrons in the bar at that time of night, those elements seemed a little unnecessary!).

Although Tony adored the food the whole time we were in Sweden, I thought it left a lot to be desired… especially when I was told that they’d run out of lamb and I was going to have to settle for moose (or elk) carpaccio and smoked fish.  Not ideal.

I basically wanted to stay up as late as possible and so avoid the ice room until the very last minute, and so we drank cheap, nasty red wine and played Mapominoes until virtually everyone else had gone to bed.  When it came to getting ready for bed, we were told to wear no more than one layer all over on the basis that it’s your body heat that has to heat up the sleeping bag, and the bag won’t get very warm if all the heat is trapped in layers and layers of clothes.  So we stripped down to thermals, ski socks, glove liners, a balaclava and a woolly hat, grabbed our super duper uber-thick sleeping bags, bit the bullet and ventured into the ice room.  It turned into quite a palaver getting ourselves into bed, but after a lot of giggling and maneuvering we were finally settled and ready for sleep…

Sleep came eventually, but in my case at least, it wasn’t for long.  Turns out sleeping in a balaclava can leave you feeling rather claustrophobic in the middle of the night (probably aided by the fact that I’d put my pillow inside my sleeping bag so that there was just a tiny hole for my face to stick through…).  I was half way through ripping it all off before I’d woken up enough to realize that I had two options – either take off the layers around my face and risk freezing, or talk myself out of hyperventilating and just try to relax… my desire to stay warm won out in the end and I opted for option B.  Typically, when Tony and I were discussing it the next day he mentioned that the night in the Ice Hotel had been the best sleep he’d had in ages – to the extent that he was distinctly unimpressed when we were woken up with glasses of lingonberry juice first thing in the morning and tried to convince me that we should snooze in the sub-zero temperatures for a little while longer.  Needless to say he wasn’t very successful in bringing me round to that idea!

After a bit of a wander round the facilities taking photos of the frozen, snowy lake and the husky teams the next morning, there was just time for a quick tat stop at the hotel’s shop before we were in the back of yet another pricey taxi on our way to our final destination for the trip – Kiruna. 

Now, I’m not going to lie to you – Kiruna is a shit hole.  Especially if, like us, you happen to be in town on a Sunday afternoon followed by New Years Eve.  Our hotel room wasn’t ready when we arrived so we decided to go exploring for the afternoon before our evening husky ride… which would have been a grand plan except for the fact that EVERYWHERE in town was shut.  Actually not quite everywhere – there was a fried chicken place that we passed on our walk in that had its lights on.  But literally every other shop, supermarket, restaurant and bar had the shutters down and the lights off.  The only other people in the streets were bewildered tourists who, like us, had probably expected a bit more from this mining town of the north.  We passed some poor Asian tourists trying to check-in at their youth hostel, and watched as they were turned away at the door because check-in didn’t open until 4pm – i.e. in a couple of hours.  With NOWHERE else in town open, and the snow really coming down, it’s hard to imagine how they killed the time before check-in!

Fortunately Kiruna wasn’t a complete write off – we had a brilliant dog sled trip with Fabio and a couple of girls from New York… still no northern lights, but we did get to hang out with playful puppies who managed to tackle Tony to the ground and run off with his woollen hat just as we were getting ready to head home.  We also had a couple of lovely afternoons and evenings watching movies and drinking duty free that we kept cold in a bucket of snow in the bathroom.  It was definitely the most low-key New Years that I’ve had in a while… so much so that it was only when fireworks started going off outside that we realized we were now in 2013!  Given our location it seemed only fitting to see in the new year with Abba’s “Happy New Year” as we watched people in the car park outside struggling to light a Chinese paper lantern before Tony stripped down to his undies and jumped into a giant drift while I filmed his escapade for posterity!

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